We stopped just outside of 'town' to do a final check before entering the largely untracked, uninhabited and ruthlessly brutal Denakil Depression. Ahead of us was 5 hours (about 180kms or so) of nearly trackless stony desert, sand dunes, salt pans and dried lake beds. Oh...and heat. Unrelenting heat.
This is a 4-shot panorama stitched together in CS3.
Location: Outside Hamd Ela, Denakil Depression, Ethiopia
Lens used: 10-22mm f3.5-4.5
Though not quite as featureless as this for the whole way, there really wasn't much to see beyond the emptiness itself. Tire tracks, which were quite visible at this point and the familiarity of the region and experience of your driver, were the only way to find one's way. We were probably the only folks to have come out here in a couple weeks and, in those places where water running off from the Ethiopian highlands had obliterated the tracks in the sand, we were forced to route find and guess. Though there were a couple wrong turns made and we got stuck twice, we eventually made it to our destination (and back again!).
The extreme heat - up to 52˙C (125.6˙F) - and endless clouds of dust kept my cameras secured in my bag, so I didn't shoot too much during this journey. Though I'm bummed at this now that I'm at home, while there I was sure it was the right call to have made.
Location: Somewhere in the Denakil Depression, Ethiopia
Lens used: 10-22mm f3.5-4.5
"Basecamp" at the bottom of the Erta Ale volcano.
There was nothing here, save for a smattering of rock and stick huts providing shade and a tiny bit of protection from the wind. There was no water, no provisions and certainly no one else around. Or, at least that's how it is during the summer. I was told that in the peak winter (cooler) season, there can be up to 50 jeeps and a couple hundred tourists here. To capitalize on this income opportunity, locals set up camp and provide camels to lug gear and provisions up the volcano for these groups. Needless to say, there were no camels available for my use.
This is the point from which everyone walks the 10 or so kilometers up to the Erta Ale volcano summit, which is the highest point visible in this photograph, just to the right of center. Though a gentle grade, the hike was a brutal one in the furnace-like heat. Though I wanted to make it to the top for sunset, there was no way I would have been able to start walking in the middle of the afternoon when the heat was at it's peak. As a compromise, we started walking at 530pm. I achieved the summit three hours later, well after dark.
This is a 4-shot panorama stitched together in CS3.
Location: Denakil Depression, Ethiopia
Lens used: 24-105mm f4.0 IS
If there's one thing that might rival Coca-Cola for a world-wide presence, it may be the Kalashnikov AK-47 assault rifle. Here, one of my hired police guards fires his AK during some target practice.
He missed.
Location: Denakil Depression, Ethiopia
Lens used: 24-105mm f4.0 IS
The primary lava lake inside the volcano.
Though I'm sitting just feet from the rim of the crater inside the main volcano caldera, probably only about 50 yards or less from the lava, I couldn't see a thing - my visit happened to be on a completely moon- and star-less night and as I didn't arrive at the summit of the volcano until after dark, I never got a chance to view (let alone photograph) my surroundings. The only illumination, save from that of my headlamp, was the slowly convecting lava lake in front of me.
Location: Erta Ale volcano, Denakil Depression, Ethiopia
Lens used: 24-105mm f4.0 IS
The other major sight to visit in the Denakil Depression is Dallol, the lowest place in the Depression and the location of some remarkable volcanic activity.
For my excursion, I was lead by a local civilian (foreground) and joined by a couple of Ethiopian army soldiers (background).
Location: Dallol, Denakil Depression, Ethiopia
Lens used: 10-22mm f3.5-4.5
Most of the beers I had in Africa were light, pale lagers - which generally are not my brews of choice. Thus, anything outside of this was welcome. Enter Hakim Stout - which the locals nicknamed "Obama" for it's darker color, though as you can tell it's color is more along the lines of a porter than a stout. But they called it what they called it. Though I found it a bit on the harsh side, it was ultimately palatable and satisfying.
Location: Harar, Ethiopia
Lens used: 24-105mm f4.0 IS
